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		<title>#RECIPE: Falling In Love With Cheese Quiche All Over Again</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Mar 2016 06:43:32 +0000</pubDate>
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					<description><![CDATA[<p>Cheese quiche. Credit: Paul Cowan/iStock By Martha Rose Shulman In the heyday of 1970s vegetarianism, quiche was the go-to dish. Everybody was making them. When I taught vegetarian cooking classes then, quiche (not the classic quiche lorraine with lardons, of course) would be one of the first recipes I&#8217;d teach. I made them by the [&#8230;]</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ubiqtv.com/recipe-falling-in-love-with-cheese-quiche-all-over-again/">#RECIPE: Falling In Love With Cheese Quiche All Over Again</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ubiqtv.com">Ubiq TV | English News Channel</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em><span style="color: #3366ff;">Cheese quiche. Credit: Paul Cowan/iStock</span> </em></p>
<p><strong>By Martha Rose Shulman</strong></p>
<p>In the heyday of 1970s vegetarianism, quiche was the go-to dish. Everybody was making them. When I taught vegetarian cooking classes then, quiche (not the classic quiche lorraine with lardons, of course) would be one of the first recipes I&#8217;d teach. I made them by the sheet pan for catering jobs; they were extremely popular, even though I now know that the crusts I made in those days weren&#8217;t very good, and the formula I used for the custard wasn&#8217;t nearly as satisfying as the formula I use now.</p>
<p>Then quiche went out of fashion. This happened gradually, as Italian food stepped into vogue and Julia Child gave way to Marcella Hazan. I was living in France during this period of time, and since the classics of French cuisine are not fashion-driven, I could always get a good quiche. They were and are standard savory fare at just about every French bakery. I found entire boutiques devoted to savory tarts, and learned a lot about fillings.</p>
<p>I let quiche slide for a number of years myself, as I focused more on Mediterranean pies and chose olive oil over butter. But after working with Jacquy Pfeiffer on his prize-winning book, &#8220;The Art of French Pastry,&#8221; I became enamored again with the quiche. I learned Jacquy&#8217;s formula for a rich, savory pie crust that is easy to roll out, and my adaptation, made with half whole wheat flour, rolls out as easily as his. It is luscious, nutty and flaky, quite irresistible. I also learned from Jacquy to let my vegetable filling air out so its moisture would evaporate and not dilute the custard, and to make the custard with a combination of egg yolks and whole eggs. &#8220;The yolk&#8217;s lecithin is a great emulsifier that brings the water and fat together,&#8221; says Jacquy, &#8220;while the white is a great binder. Using only egg yolks … would give the tart an eggy aftertaste. Using only whole eggs would … make the custard too firm.&#8221; Who knew?</p>
<p>My quiches are as much about the vegetables that go into them as they are about the custard, the cheese (I like to combine Gruyère and Parmesan), and the crust. My favorites, the ones I make at the drop of a hat, are filled with spinach or other greens and onion, or with savory pan-cooked mushrooms. Then again I love a cabbage and onion quiche, with a little caraway thrown in; and in spring I&#8217;ll use steamed or roasted asparagus, spring onions and lots of fresh herbs. There may be nothing new about these pies, but a good quiche never gets old.</p>
<p><strong>Classic Cheese Quiche</strong></p>
<p>Serves 6</p>
<p><strong>Ingredients</strong></p>
<p>2 egg yolks</p>
<p>2 whole eggs</p>
<p>1 (9-inch) whole wheat pâte brisée pie crust, fully baked (recipe below) and cooled</p>
<p>½ teaspoon salt</p>
<p>Freshly ground pepper</p>
<p>⅔ cup milk</p>
<p>1 to 2 cups vegetable filling of your choice</p>
<p>3 ounces Gruyère, grated, or 1 ounce Parmesan and 2 ounces Gruyère, grated (¾ cup grated cheese)</p>
<p><strong>Directions</strong></p>
<p>1. Heat the oven to 350 F.</p>
<p>2. Beat together the egg yolks and eggs in a medium bowl. Set the tart pan on a baking sheet to allow for easy handling. Using a pastry brush, lightly brush the bottom of the crust with some of the beaten egg and place in the oven for 5 minutes. The egg seals the crust so that it won&#8217;t become soggy when it comes into contact with the custard.</p>
<p>3. Add the salt, pepper, and milk to the remaining eggs and whisk together.</p>
<p>4. Spread the vegetable filling (recipes below) in an even layer on the crust. Sprinkle the cheese in an even layer on top of the filling. (If you are making a simple cheese quiche with no vegetables, just sprinkle the cheese over the bottom of the crust in an even layer.) Very slowly, pour in the egg custard. If your tart pan has low edges, you may not need all of it to fill the quiche, and you want to avoid overflowing the edges. So pour in gradually and watch the custard spread out in the shell. Bake the quiche for 30 minutes, or until set and just beginning to color on the top. Allow to sit for at least 15 minutes before serving.</p>
<p>Note: Alternatively, toss the vegetable filling with the cheese and spread in the bottom of the crust rather than layering the cheese over the vegetable filling.</p>
<p><strong>Whole Wheat Pâte Brisée</strong></p>
<p><strong>Ingredients</strong></p>
<p>222 grams French style butter such as Plugrà (8 ounces, 1 cup), at room temperature</p>
<p>175 grams whole wheat flour or whole wheat pastry flour (approximately 1½ cups less 1 tablespoon)</p>
<p>175 grams unbleached all-purpose flour (approximately 1½ cups less 1 tablespoon)</p>
<p>7 grams fine sea salt (1 teaspoon)</p>
<p>92 grams water (6 tablespoons)</p>
<p><strong>Directions</strong></p>
<p>1. Make sure that your butter is at room temperature. Place it in the bowl of a standing mixer. Sift together the flours and salt and add to the mixer. Mix at low speed just until the mixture is well combined. Do not over beat. Add the water and beat at low speed just until the mixture comes together. Do not over mix or you will activate the gluten in the flour too much and you pastry will be tough.</p>
<p>2. Using a pastry scraper or a rubber spatula, scrape the dough onto a large sheet of plastic wrap. Weigh it and divide into 2 equal pieces. Place each piece onto a large sheet of plastic, fold the plastic over and and flatten into ½-inch thick squares. Double wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and preferably overnight.</p>
<p>3. Very lightly butter two 9-inch tart pans. If you can see the butter you&#8217;ve used too much. Roll out the dough and line the tart pans. Using a fork, pierce rows of holes in the bottom, about an inch apart. This will allow steam to escape and aid in even baking. Refrigerate uncovered for several hours or preferably overnight.</p>
<p>4. To pre-bake, heat the oven to 325 F. Remove a tart shell from the refrigerator, unwrap and line it with a sheet of parchment. Fill all the way with pie weights, which can be beans or rice used exclusively for pre-baking pastry, or special pie weights. Place in the middle of the oven for 15 minutes. Remove the &#8220;faux filling&#8221; and return to the oven. Bake for another 15 to 20 minutes, or until light golden brown and evenly colored. There should be no evidence of moisture in the dough. Remove from the oven and allow to cool.</p>
<p><strong>Mushroom Filling</strong></p>
<p><strong>Ingredients</strong></p>
<p>½- to ¾-pound white or cremini mushrooms, wiped if gritty</p>
<p>2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil</p>
<p>Salt and freshly ground pepper</p>
<p>2 shallots, minced</p>
<p>2 garlic cloves, minced</p>
<p>2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme, rosemary, or sage (or a combination), or ½ teaspoon dried, OR 1 to 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley</p>
<p>¼ cup dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc</p>
<p><strong>Directions</strong></p>
<p>1. Trim off the ends of the mushrooms and cut in thick slices. Heat a large, heavy frying pan over medium-high heat and add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. When the oil is hot (you can feel the heat when you hold your hand above the pan), add the mushrooms. Don&#8217;t stir for 30 seconds to a minute, then cook, stirring or tossing in the pan, for a few minutes, until they begin to soften and sweat. Add the remaining oil, turn the heat to medium, and add the shallots, garlic, and thyme, rosemary or sage. Stir together, add salt (about ½ teaspoon) and freshly ground pepper to taste, and cook, stirring often, for another 1 to 2 minutes, until the shallots and garlic have softened and the mixture is fragrant. Add the parsley and wine and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pan, until the wine has evaporated. Taste and adjust seasonings. Remove from the heat.</p>
<p><strong>Spinach and Scallion Filling</strong></p>
<p><strong>Ingredients</strong></p>
<p>1 to 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (to taste)</p>
<p>2 bunches scallions (about 6 ounces), trimmed and sliced</p>
<p>1 to 2 garlic cloves, to taste, minced (optional)</p>
<p>1½ cups chopped blanched or steamed spinach (12 ounces baby spinach or 2 bunches, stemmed and washed well in two changes of water)</p>
<p>1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves</p>
<p><strong>Salt and freshly ground pepper</strong></p>
<p><strong>Directions</strong></p>
<p>1. Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat and add the scallions. Cook, stirring, until tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic if using and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the spinach, thyme, salt and pepper and stir over medium heat for about a minute, until the spinach is nicely coated with olive oil. Remove from the heat.</p>
<p><em>Copyright 2016 Martha Rose Shulman via Zester Daily and Reuters Media Express</em></p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ubiqtv.com/recipe-falling-in-love-with-cheese-quiche-all-over-again/">#RECIPE: Falling In Love With Cheese Quiche All Over Again</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ubiqtv.com">Ubiq TV | English News Channel</a>.</p>
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		<title>Winter Vegetables Are The Heart Of Cozy Meals</title>
		<link>https://ubiqtv.com/winter-vegetables-are-the-heart-of-cozy-meals/</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 27 Feb 2016 06:08:24 +0000</pubDate>
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					<description><![CDATA[<p>Recent finds at the winter market included cauliflower, broccoli, a black radish and leeks.         Credit: Copyright 2016 Nancy Harmon Jenkins By Nancy Harmon Jenkins (Zester Daily) A recent trip to the produce market led me to sing hymns in praise of winter vegetables. I returned home with familiar cauliflower and broccoli, as well as fennel, [&#8230;]</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ubiqtv.com/winter-vegetables-are-the-heart-of-cozy-meals/">Winter Vegetables Are The Heart Of Cozy Meals</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ubiqtv.com">Ubiq TV | English News Channel</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span style="color: #3366ff;"><em>Recent finds at the winter market included cauliflower, broccoli, a black radish and leeks.         Credit: Copyright 2016 Nancy Harmon Jenkins</em></span></p>
<p>By Nancy Harmon Jenkins (Zester Daily)</p>
<p>A recent trip to the produce market led me to sing hymns in praise of winter vegetables. I returned home with familiar cauliflower and broccoli, as well as fennel, which I’ve learned can be as good roasted in a gratin dish with a light cheesy topping as it is raw in a salad. Other finds included an enormous, 2-pound black radish, something totally new to me; and leeks, without a doubt the true key to all good things in the winter kitchen.</p>
<p>Years ago, for reasons too complicated to explain, I spent a couple of winters in a very small French village, population just less than 3,000, in the Vercors mountains above Grenoble. We stayed, my baby girl and I, in a pension called La Crémaillère run by Madame Jacquet, one of those fierce French women utterly lacking in social graces but who was a genius in the kitchen. The babe went to the école maternelle (nursery school) each morning, while Mama hovered over her typewriter, engaged in writing a novel (not my first, and no, it was never finished).</p>
<p>Toward lunchtime, up from Madame Jacquet’s kitchen would float inevitably the enticing aroma of leeks, steeped and braised in butter, ready to form the base of whatever potage du jour was on Madame’s menu for that day. Perhaps a little garlic accompanied them, occasionally an onion to add its more acerbic flavors to the mix, and then carrots one day, little purple-topped turnips another, simple potatoes a third. But every lunch began, as was considered only proper in the bon ménage bourgeois Madame Jacquet maintained, in company with her equals all over France.</p>
<p><strong>Aromas bring back memories</strong></p>
<p>From that day to this, the enticing aroma of braising leeks has evoked France for me more strongly than any other, more strongly even than the penetrating odor of Gauloise Caporals &#8212; strong French cigarettes &#8212; that used to be the distinguishing fragrance of the Paris Métro.</p>
<p>So when I chop a leek, rinse it carefully and toss it in a pot with a tablespoon of butter and a tablespoon of oil, it is to France that my culinary instincts turn. Those French soups are so simple, so easy and so inviting that I’m ready to revive them for my winter table. And because we’re always looking for ways to put more healthful vegetables on the menu, a potage du jour can be an elegant way to add to that slot as well.</p>
<p>Because I already had the cauliflower, why not, then, a potage au chou-fleur for a first course at dinner? I was not surprised to discover that my good friend Josée di Stasio, who has a great French-language food program, &#8220;A la di Stasio,&#8221; on Quebec television, has a recipe for a leek and cauliflower soup. For 4 servings, di Stasio simply sweats out 2 chopped leeks and 2 cloves of garlic in olive oil, adds a cut-up cauliflower, then 6 cups of broth (chicken or vegetable &#8212; enough to cover) and cooks until the vegetables are all tender. I would also add half a peeled and cubed potato to give the soup a nice creaminess. Then puree it, using a stick blender or an old-fashioned vegetable mill, and serve it up, garnished with chopped parsley or chervil or any other green herb that tickles your fancy.</p>
<p>Another time, though, I went back to a favorite recipe from &#8220;The Four Seasons of Pasta,&#8221; the book I published last year with my daughter Sara, to find a great cauliflower &#8220;sauce&#8221; for pasta. It isn’t really a sauce, but it is delicious mixed with pasta, and the sultana raisins and pine nuts give it a pleasant Sicilian touch. We think penne rigate is the perfect shape for this, but any short, stubby pasta will do.</p>
<p>If you look at the photo below, you will probably notice I left out the chili. That’s because I didn’t have one and it was too cold and late to go to the grocery store for one chili pepper. I also substituted pumpkin seeds for the pine nuts, just because I felt like it. This is all just proof that most recipes, including our own, are not engraved in bronze. Make do with what you have!</p>
<figure id="attachment_1431" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-1431" style="width: 950px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://ubiqtv.com/storage/2016/02/2016-02-25T183947Z_1_MTZSPDEC2P4967QZ_RTRFIPP_4_FRENCH-ITALIAN-CUISINE-PASTA-RECIPE.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-1431"><img fetchpriority="high" decoding="async" class="size-large wp-image-1431" src="http://ubiqtv.com/storage/2016/02/2016-02-25T183947Z_1_MTZSPDEC2P4967QZ_RTRFIPP_4_FRENCH-ITALIAN-CUISINE-PASTA-RECIPE-1024x683.jpg" alt="Penne rigate con Cavalfiore alla Siciliana. Credit: Copyright 2016 Nancy Harmon Jenkins" width="950" height="634" /></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-1431" class="wp-caption-text"><span style="color: #3366ff;"><em>Penne rigate con Cavalfiore alla Siciliana.             Credit: Copyright 2016 Nancy Harmon Jenkins</em></span></figcaption></figure>
<p><strong>Penne rigate con Cavalfiore alla Siciliana</strong></p>
<p><em>(Sicilian cauliflower pasta with leeks, raisins, pine nuts and a bit of chili)</em></p>
<p>Prep time: 15 minutes</p>
<p>Cooking time: 20 minutes</p>
<p>Total time: 35 minutes</p>
<p>Yield: Makes 6 servings</p>
<p>&nbsp;<br />
<strong>Ingredients</strong></p>
<p>1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil</p>
<p>2 leeks, white and light green parts, thinly sliced to make 2 cups</p>
<p>2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced</p>
<p>About 1 pound cauliflower, separated into 1-inch florets</p>
<p>1 fresh red or green chili pepper, seeded and thinly sliced</p>
<p>1/2 cup dry white wine</p>
<p>1/2 cup golden sultana raisins, plumped in hot water and drained</p>
<p>Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste</p>
<p>About 1 pound (a 500-gram package) penne rigate</p>
<p>1/2 cup freshly grated sharp pecorino</p>
<p>1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted</p>
<p>&nbsp;<br />
<strong>Directions</strong></p>
<p>1. Combine the olive oil with the leeks and garlic in a large, deep skillet and set over low heat. Cook, shaking the pan and stirring, until the leeks are softened but not browned, about 10 minutes.</p>
<p>2. Add the cauliflower and sliced chili. Cover the pan and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the cauliflower is tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Check from time to time and add a tablespoon or two of water or some of the wine to keep the vegetables from sticking to the pan.</p>
<p>3. When the cauliflower is tender, add the wine along with another 1/4 cup of water and raise the heat slightly. Simmer over medium-low heat until the liquid has reduced to about 1/2 cup, about 10 minutes. Toss in the raisins and simmer just long enough to mix the flavors together.</p>
<p>4. While the vegetables are cooking, bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add plenty of salt and the pasta and cook, following package directions, until the pasta is al dente.</p>
<p>5. Drain the pasta and toss with the vegetables in the skillet, then turn into a warm serving bowl and toss again with the grated cheese and pine nuts. Serve immediately.<br />
<em><strong>Note: You could easily substitute bright green broccoli for the cauliflower in this dish, but it will cook in much less time than the cauliflower. Or try it with a colorful mixture of broccoli and cauliflower together.</strong></em></p>
<p><em>Copyright Nancy Harmon Jenkins via Zester Daily and Reuters Media Express</em></p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ubiqtv.com/winter-vegetables-are-the-heart-of-cozy-meals/">Winter Vegetables Are The Heart Of Cozy Meals</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ubiqtv.com">Ubiq TV | English News Channel</a>.</p>
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		<title>Give Turnip Greens The Italian Treatment</title>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Feb 2016 08:00:46 +0000</pubDate>
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					<description><![CDATA[<p>Purple turnips: Credit: whitetag &#160; By Clifford A. Wright (Zester Daily) Mick Jagger nailed one problem with turnip greens when he sang &#8220;Down Home Girl&#8221; in 1964: Lord I swear the perfume you wear Was made out of turnip greens And every time I kiss you girl It tastes like pork and beans. The songwriters, [&#8230;]</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ubiqtv.com/give-turnip-greens-the-italian-treatment/">Give Turnip Greens The Italian Treatment</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ubiqtv.com">Ubiq TV | English News Channel</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span style="color: #ff0000;"><em>Purple turnips: Credit: whitetag</em></span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>By Clifford A. Wright (Zester Daily)</strong></p>
<p><em>Mick Jagger nailed one problem with turnip greens when he sang &#8220;Down Home Girl&#8221; in 1964:</em></p>
<p>Lord I swear the perfume you wear</p>
<p>Was made out of turnip greens</p>
<p>And every time I kiss you girl</p>
<p>It tastes like pork and beans.</p>
<p>The songwriters, Jerry Leiber and Artie Butler, were two Jewish boys from Baltimore and Long Island, respectively, who were unlikely ever to have eaten turnip greens and pork and beans. The song was first sung by Alvin Robinson, but became well known when the Rolling Stones recorded it in Los Angeles in November 1964.</p>
<p>Those turnip greens were on a plate somewhere &#8220;down home&#8221; in Louisiana. Turnip greens are poor people&#8217;s food and you&#8217;ll almost never find them in a modern Cajun or Creole cookbook unless they get tossed into a gumbo z&#8217;herbes.</p>
<p>Yes there is a problem with smell, as is true with all the cruciferous vegetables. But the one group of people who do something with turnip greens other than cook them with a ham hock are the Italians, who also are a major part of New Orleans&#8217; culinary heritage. One classic preparation would be a dish of boiled turnip greens dressed with fried fresh bread crumbs.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<figure id="attachment_1423" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-1423" style="width: 950px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://ubiqtv.com/storage/2016/02/2016-02-25T184853Z_1_MTZSPDEC2P49LFR3_RTRFIPP_4_TURNIP-GREENS-ITALIAN-RECIPE.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-1423"><img decoding="async" class="size-large wp-image-1423" src="http://ubiqtv.com/storage/2016/02/2016-02-25T184853Z_1_MTZSPDEC2P49LFR3_RTRFIPP_4_TURNIP-GREENS-ITALIAN-RECIPE-1024x682.jpg" alt="Cime De Rapa, Turnip Greens" width="950" height="633" /></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-1423" class="wp-caption-text"><em><span style="color: #ff0000;">Cime De Rapa, Turnip Greens</span></em></figcaption></figure>
<p><strong>Turnip Greens With Fried Bread Crumbs</strong></p>
<p>In Italian, &#8220;cime&#8221; can refer to turnip greens, rapini or broccoli rabe, any of which can be used for this preparation. This is a very simple preparation and so although it&#8217;s delicious, it is essential to use the proper ration of olive oil, bread crumbs and salt to the greens. Every bite has a nice texture to it.</p>
<p>Serves 4<br />
<strong>Ingredients</strong></p>
<p>2 pounds turnip greens, rapini or broccoli rabe</p>
<p>Salt to taste</p>
<p>¼ cup extra virgin olive oil</p>
<p>2 cups fresh bread crumbs<br />
<strong>Directions</strong></p>
<p>1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat, salt lightly then cook the greens until soft but still bright green, about 10 minutes. Drain well in a strainer, pressing out excess liquid with the back of a wooden spoon. Chop the greens coarsely.</p>
<p>2. In a nonstick sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat, then cook stirring the bread crumbs until golden and crisp, about 3 minutes. Add the greens and cook, tossing, until mixed well with the bread crumbs, about 1 minute. Season with salt and serve.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><em>Copyright 2016 Clifford A. Wright via Zester Daily and Reuters Media Express</em></p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ubiqtv.com/give-turnip-greens-the-italian-treatment/">Give Turnip Greens The Italian Treatment</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ubiqtv.com">Ubiq TV | English News Channel</a>.</p>
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		<title>Radicchio The Italian Way: Warm, Never Raw</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 23 Feb 2016 06:15:16 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Radicchio Stuffed With Goat Cheese]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Spaghetti With Braised Radicchio]]></category>
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					<description><![CDATA[<p>Radicchio stuffed with goat cheese.       Credit: (Copyright 2016) Nathan Hoyt/Forktales By Julia della Croce (Zester Daily) If radicchio has become wildly popular in the States, it still doesn&#8217;t get the respect it deserves: Americans have adopted the showy vegetable as their own, but rarely does it transcend the salad bowl. This drives the Italians crazy, [&#8230;]</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ubiqtv.com/radicchio-the-italian-way-warm-never-raw/">Radicchio The Italian Way: Warm, Never Raw</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ubiqtv.com">Ubiq TV | English News Channel</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span style="color: #ff0000;"><em>Radicchio stuffed with goat cheese.       Credit: (Copyright 2016) Nathan Hoyt/Forktales</em></span></p>
<p><strong><em>By Julia della Croce (Zester Daily)</em> </strong></p>
<p>If radicchio has become wildly popular in the States, it still doesn&#8217;t get the respect it deserves: Americans have adopted the showy vegetable as their own, but rarely does it transcend the salad bowl. This drives the Italians crazy, because throughout the regions where growing it is a tradition and an art, it has endless uses. Stuff it; shred it and caramelize it in olive oil for a pasta sauce or focaccia topping; melt it into a buttery risotto; coat it in batter and fry. Why not bake it into a cheesy pie encased in a crumbly crust? Venetians have no end of such recipes for their adored radicchio, and the different varieties they grow are starting to show their beautiful heads in American markets.</p>
<figure id="attachment_1348" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-1348" style="width: 950px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://ubiqtv.com/storage/2016/02/2016-02-22T161627Z_1_MTZSPDEC2MYIJE0N_RTRFIPP_4_ITALIAN-COOKING-RADICCHIO-RECIPES.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-1348"><img decoding="async" class="size-large wp-image-1348" src="http://ubiqtv.com/storage/2016/02/2016-02-22T161627Z_1_MTZSPDEC2MYIJE0N_RTRFIPP_4_ITALIAN-COOKING-RADICCHIO-RECIPES-1024x682.jpg" alt="Radicchios for sale in Verona. Credit: Copyright 2016 Paolo Destefanis for Veneto: Authentic Recipes From Venice and The Italian Northeast, by Julia della Croce (Chronicle Books)" width="950" height="633" /></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-1348" class="wp-caption-text"><span style="color: #ff0000;"><em>Radicchios for sale in Verona. Credit: Copyright 2016 Paolo Destefanis for Veneto: Authentic Recipes From Venice and The Italian Northeast, by Julia della Croce (Chronicle Books)</em></span></figcaption></figure>
<p>Recently, I spoke with Emily Balducci, whose family introduced the vegetable to New York in the 1970s. Their legendary Greenwich Village grocery store evolved into Baldor Specialty Foods, which curates and distributes fresh produce to retailers and chefs. &#8220;Beginning in January, we get shipments twice a week,&#8221; she said. &#8220;The first of these winter beauties is Castelfranco, and the others follow. At the end of the season, we get rosa di Gorizia, the most gorgeous one of all.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>Know your radicchio</strong></p>
<figure id="attachment_1350" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-1350" style="width: 950px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://ubiqtv.com/storage/2016/02/2016-02-22T161633Z_1_MTZSPDEC2MYIJG0P_RTRFIPP_4_ITALIAN-COOKING-RADICCHIO-RECIPES.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-1350"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-1350 size-large" src="http://ubiqtv.com/storage/2016/02/2016-02-22T161633Z_1_MTZSPDEC2MYIJG0P_RTRFIPP_4_ITALIAN-COOKING-RADICCHIO-RECIPES-1024x683.jpg" alt="Only the rosa di Gorizia variety, a chicory with ancient roots in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region and imported by Baldor Specialty Foods, is spared the heat in my kitchen. Credit: Sebastian Arguello, copyright 2016 copyright Baldor Specialty Foods" width="950" height="634" /></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-1350" class="wp-caption-text"><em><span style="color: #ff0000;">Only the rosa di Gorizia variety, a chicory with ancient roots in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region and imported by Baldor Specialty Foods, is spared the heat in writer&#8217;s kitchen.                                               </span></em><em><span style="color: #ff0000;">Credit: Sebastian Arguello, (copyright 2016)  Baldor Specialty Foods</span></em></figcaption></figure>
<p>To begin with, it should be noted that the radicchio tribe belongs to the group of root chicories classified as Cichorium intybus; as such, the leaves have a bite to them when eaten raw. While we are most familiar with the wine-colored, globe-shaped Verona chicory, there are numerous varieties indigenous to northeastern Italy, all characterized by their spectacular reddish or reddish-green coloring. Besides radicchio rosso di Verona (also called &#8220;the rose of Chioggia,&#8221; just to confuse the matter), these include another spherical type that can grow as large as a cabbage head: the Castelfranco radicchio, which is shaped like an open peony and cream-hued with violet streaking as well as a green tint to its outermost leaves.</p>
<p>Both the Treviso radicchio (variegato di Treviso) and the late-winter tardivo di Treviso are elongated just like their cousin the Belgian endive, but the comparison stops there. With its leggy white stalks and furled, deep-purple leaf tips, tardivo (which means &#8220;late-blooming&#8221;) is the most esteemed by the Italians for its sweetness. Of all the radicchios, the most lovely of all might very well be the aforementioned rosa di Gorizia, a crimson variety shaped precisely like a rose. In the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region, where rosa di Gorizia has been cultivated for centuries, greengrocers display the heads with their leaves open, like blooms in a flower shop.</p>
<p><strong>To cook it is to love it</strong></p>
<p>Personally, I prefer radicchio cooked. Sautéing, braising, grilling or roasting softens yet also develops its characteristic tanginess. One of the most delicious ways to cook it is to stuff the leaves with fresh cheese and wrap with pancetta before pan-roasting. But my favorite of all just might be spaghetti with radicchio, for which all but the rosa di Gorizia are suitable (let&#8217;s face it, even though the locals bake, boil or fry them like any other chicory, the rosettes are simply too exquisite to be tampered with; best to present them in their natural state to be appreciated for their beauty). Both recipes are easy and quick to make.</p>
<p><strong>Radicchio Stuffed With Goat Cheese</strong></p>
<figure id="attachment_1351" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-1351" style="width: 950px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://ubiqtv.com/storage/2016/02/2016-02-22T161633Z_1_MTZSPDEC2MYIJG0Q_RTRFIPP_4_ITALIAN-COOKING-RADICCHIO-RECIPES.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-1351"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-large wp-image-1351" src="http://ubiqtv.com/storage/2016/02/2016-02-22T161633Z_1_MTZSPDEC2MYIJG0Q_RTRFIPP_4_ITALIAN-COOKING-RADICCHIO-RECIPES-1024x682.jpg" alt="Gail Whitney-Karn’s version of the recipe, ready for the skillet. Credit: Copyright 2016 Nathan Hoyt/Forktales" width="950" height="633" /></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-1351" class="wp-caption-text"><span style="color: #ff0000;"><em>Gail Whitney-Karn’s version of the recipe, ready for the skillet. Credit: (Copyright 2016) Nathan Hoyt/Forktales</em></span></figcaption></figure>
<p><strong>Prep time</strong>: 25 minutes</p>
<p><strong>Cooking time:</strong> Approximately 5 minutes</p>
<p><strong>Total time:</strong> About 30 minutes</p>
<p><strong>Yield</strong>: 4 appetizer portions</p>
<p>Friends who moved to Italy and invited us to lunch one afternoon at their temporary digs served this easy-to-make antipasto. Gail Whitney-Karn shared the recipe willingly, explaining that it originated with a chef named Carmine Smeraldo, who ran a Seattle restaurant called Il Terrazzo Carmine. She used the Castelfranco variety, but I have adapted it for the smaller and more common Verona type. If using Verona radicchio, select the largest head you can find for the broadest outer leaves (there will be some left over, which you can use for the pasta recipe that follows). You will also need some thin cotton kitchen string.</p>
<p><strong>Ingredients:</strong></p>
<p>1 large head radicchio</p>
<p>2 tablespoons Italian (not Asian) pine nuts, or skinned walnuts</p>
<p>5 ounces goat cheese</p>
<p>2 tablespoons ricotta</p>
<p>Pinch of fine salt</p>
<p>Freshly milled black or white pepper to taste</p>
<p>4 to 8 thin slices pancetta (depending on the bundle size), the leaner the better</p>
<p>Extra virgin olive oil<br />
<strong>Directions:</strong></p>
<p>1. Using a small, sharp knife, core the base of the radicchio. Detach eight nice outer leaves carefully, without tearing. Slice off the protruding base from the bottom of each rib to make it easier to roll up.</p>
<p>2. In a small skillet over low heat, lightly toast the pine nuts or walnuts until they are lightly colored but not browned. Chop them coarsely.</p>
<p>3. In a bowl, blend together the goat cheese, ricotta, nuts, salt and pepper.</p>
<p>4. Working with two leaves at a time, line one inside the other so that their bases are just overlapping in the center and the leaf tips are pointing outward. Place a rounded tablespoon of the cheese mixture in the center. Wrap the leaves around the filling to envelop it completely and form a torpedo-like bundle. Wrap one or two pancetta slices on the outside of the bundle to cover the leafy surface without overlapping, if possible. Secure with the kitchen string to prevent the filling from leaking excessively as the bundles sear. Use the remaining 6 leaves and filling to form 3 more bundles.</p>
<p>5. Warm an ample non-stick frying pan, cast-iron pan or other heavy skillet over medium heat. Drizzle in just enough olive oil to lightly coat the pan. Arrange the bundles seam-side down and reduce the heat to medium-low. Sear without moving them until they are nicely browned, about 2 minutes. As the pancetta browns, the bundles will begin to collapse and the filling may leak out slightly, but not to worry. Use a wide spatula to turn them over carefully and brown them on the reverse side, another 2 minutes. Transfer them to a cutting board, snip off the string and carefully place one each on 4 small serving plates. Serve at once.</p>
<p><strong>Spaghetti With Braised Radicchio</strong></p>
<figure id="attachment_1352" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-1352" style="width: 950px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://ubiqtv.com/storage/2016/02/2016-02-22T161633Z_1_MTZSPDEC2MYIJH0R_RTRFIPP_4_ITALIAN-COOKING-RADICCHIO-RECIPES.jpg" rel="attachment wp-att-1352"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-large wp-image-1352" src="http://ubiqtv.com/storage/2016/02/2016-02-22T161633Z_1_MTZSPDEC2MYIJH0R_RTRFIPP_4_ITALIAN-COOKING-RADICCHIO-RECIPES-1024x685.jpg" alt="Spaghetti with braised radicchio. Credit: Copyright 2016 Nathan Hoyt/Forktales" width="950" height="635" /></a><figcaption id="caption-attachment-1352" class="wp-caption-text"><span style="color: #ff0000;"><em>Spaghetti with braised radicchio. Credit: Copyright 2016 Nathan Hoyt/Forktales</em></span></figcaption></figure>
<p><strong>Prep time:</strong> 10 minutes</p>
<p><strong>Cooking time:</strong> Approximately 20 minutes</p>
<p><strong>Total time</strong>: About 30 minutes</p>
<p><strong>Yield:</strong> 4 servings</p>
<p>I corresponded with Paolo Lanapoppi, a Venetian writer and gondola restorer, for some time before tracking him down in Venice. When we finally met, the radicchio of nearby Treviso was in full flower, and he cooked up this delightful homespun dish for lunch. While Lanapoppi used tardivo, any radicchio variety will do nicely.<br />
<strong>Ingredients:</strong></p>
<p>8 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil</p>
<p>1 medium red onion, thinly sliced and then chopped</p>
<p>8 ounces radicchio, sliced thinly and cut into 2-inch lengths</p>
<p>1/2 to 3/4 cup hot water</p>
<p>1/2 teaspoon sea salt, or to taste</p>
<p>3/4 pound (12 ounces) imported Italian spaghetti</p>
<p>2 tablespoons kosher salt</p>
<p>Freshly ground black pepper</p>
<p>Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano cheese</p>
<p><strong>Directions:</strong></p>
<p>1. In a skillet ample enough to contain all the ingredients, warm the olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the onion and sauté until nicely softened and lightly colored, about 7 minutes. Toss in the radicchio; use a wooden spoon to coat it evenly in oil and sauté for 5 to 7 minutes to wilt. Add 1/2 cup hot water and toss. Cover and continue to cook over medium-low heat until the radicchio is tender, 10 to 12 minutes, stirring occasionally and adding up to 4 more tablespoons of water if needed to keep it nice and moist. Add the sea salt, cover and set aside.</p>
<p>2. Bring a large pot filled with water over high heat to a rolling boil. Stir in the spaghetti and kosher salt. Cook at a continuous boil over high heat, stirring occasionally to prevent the strands from sticking together, until almost cooked, 1 minute less than package directions indicate. Add a glass of cold water to the pot to arrest the boiling and drain immediately, setting aside 1 cup of the cooking water.</p>
<p>3. Add the spaghetti to the skillet and return the heat to high. Use 2 long forks to distribute the ingredients evenly, about 1 minute. If necessary, add a little of the reserved pasta water to moisten. Serve immediately with plenty of pepper. Pass the grated cheese at the table.</p>
<p><em>Copyright 2016 Julia della Croce via Zester Daily and Reuters Media Express</em></p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ubiqtv.com/radicchio-the-italian-way-warm-never-raw/">Radicchio The Italian Way: Warm, Never Raw</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ubiqtv.com">Ubiq TV | English News Channel</a>.</p>
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		<title>Italian Autogrill: Slow Food Done Fast &#8211; Along The Roadside</title>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 20 Feb 2016 07:23:57 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Capri Sandwich]]></category>
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					<description><![CDATA[<p>The antipasti station at an Autogrill in Italy. Credit: Terra Brockman Copyright 2016 &#160; By Terra Brockman (Zester Daily) &#8220;Great food&#8221; and &#8220;highway rest stop&#8221; are not phrases I would normally utter in the same breath. But that was before I experienced the Italian Autogrill. At about 500 locations across Italy, you can get gas, [&#8230;]</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ubiqtv.com/italian-autogrill/">Italian Autogrill: Slow Food Done Fast &#8211; Along The Roadside</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ubiqtv.com">Ubiq TV | English News Channel</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em><span style="color: #ff0000;">The antipasti station at an Autogrill in Italy. Credit: Terra Brockman Copyright 2016</span></em></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>By Terra Brockman (Zester Daily)</strong></p>
<p>&#8220;Great food&#8221; and &#8220;highway rest stop&#8221; are not phrases I would normally utter in the same breath. But that was before I experienced the Italian Autogrill.</p>
<p>At about 500 locations across Italy, you can get gas, go to the bathroom and then, very likely, have a better dining experience than at most Italian restaurants in the United States.</p>
<p>Perhaps you&#8217;d like to choose your steak from the glistening display of fresh meat, and tell the chef how you&#8217;d like it cooked. Or maybe the pasta station, with its many pots of boiling water waiting for your choice of pasta and sauce, is calling to you. How about a spaghetti alle vongole prepared while you wait? In those few minutes while the pasta is being cooked to perfection, and the clams are opening up in their white wine sauce, you might wander over to the antipasti station and choose a beautiful plate of prosciutto, mozzarella and arugula. Then, since you are in Italy, pick up a nice half bottle of local wine and settle in for what could very well be one of the best meals of your life.</p>
<p>The Autogrill offers not only great food but valuable insights into the values and priorities of a culture. Italians enjoy modern life, efficiency and convenience as much as anyone, but modernity and convenience need not compromise food. At the Autogrill, whether you go for the whole dining experience, or just grab a freshly made panino, you will get healthy, delicious food made with great ingredients and great care. It&#8217;s slow food fast. Or fast food slow. Either way, the Autogrill is where the fast life of the autostrada meets the Slow Food values of quality ingredients prepared with pride.</p>
<p>Now, like one of Pavlov&#8217;s dogs, I start salivating at the sight of the bright red swooping A of the Autogrill franchise, and make excuses to stop there more often than strictly necessary.</p>
<p><strong>Capri Sandwich</strong></p>
<p>Prep time: 10 minutes</p>
<p>Cooking time: None</p>
<p>Total time: 10 minutes</p>
<p><strong>Ingredients</strong></p>
<p>1 piece of focaccia, split in half, or 2 slices Italian, French or sourdough bread</p>
<p>Mayonnaise, to spread, as thickly or thinly as you like</p>
<p>Sprinkling of dried oregano</p>
<p>1 leaf of lettuce</p>
<p>1 thick slice of tomato</p>
<p>2 or 3 thin slices of prosciutto cotto</p>
<p>1 generous piece of fresh mozzarella, ideally from a fresh ball of mozzarella di bufala</p>
<p><strong>Directions</strong></p>
<p>1. Warm the bread in the toaster oven, taking it out before it&#8217;s actually toasted.</p>
<p>2. Swipe some mayonnaise on what will become the two inside parts of the sandwich and sprinkle with oregano.</p>
<p>3. Assemble your sandwich, starting with lettuce on the bottom, followed by the tomato, prosciutto and mozzarella.</p>
<p><em>Copyright 2016 Terra Brockman via Zester Daily and Reuters Media Express</em></p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ubiqtv.com/italian-autogrill/">Italian Autogrill: Slow Food Done Fast &#8211; Along The Roadside</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ubiqtv.com">Ubiq TV | English News Channel</a>.</p>
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